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Health & Fitness

FishTales 2011: A Bonacker Thanksgiving Turkey

True story or not, the tale of the Bonacker Turkey is too good not to retell.

Here on Long Island’s East End, most folks know that Bonackers (short for the Indian word Accabonac, which roughly translates to land of ground nuts), are the descendants of the earliest working class English settlers of East Hampton's Springs hamlet. Only a few such families remain of what used to be farmers, baymen and fishermen. The Bonacker family names most commonly include Miller, King, Bennett, Conklin, Havens, Strong and Lester.

Back in the day, these “bubs” lived low on the food chain. Consider them among the earliest locavores. In the toughest times, particularly during the Great Depression, Bonackers were known to eschew the traditional turkey on Thanksgiving. Instead, they’d stuff a big meaty codfish with scallops, stale bread and whatever veggies their gardens might yield. Perhaps there would be some oyster stew or clam chowder, clam fritters or clam pie as well. The codfish, scallops, oysters and clams were plentiful and--once upon a time--cheap, cheap, cheap. Not so today, we all know.

There are some who question the veracity of this particular Fish Tale. But I think it too quaint not to retell, regardless. And whether you are fortunate enough to have a fat fowl on your table this holiday, or you’re giving a turkey a break by serving a ham, or perhaps a Bonacker’s turkey, here’s wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving from FishTales.

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